The week of traveling in August in Lebanon was absolutely amazing. I've traveled to several countries in the Middle East already and I really can't get enough. Maybe it's the great food, rich culture, the fact that everybody you meet has a story to tell, or seeing for myself that things aren't always as depicted by Western news. My mom says that I was from the Middle East in another life, and I absolutely agree.
This trip, I was extremely fortunate to be accompanied by three great friends. One, P, was studying Arabic at AUB, the American University of Beirut and the reason we decided to go to Lebanon. AW flew in from DC and AR came with me from Greece.
Here are some of my favorite lessons learned in Lebanon:
1. Public transport is the way to go to meet locals and travel cheaply.
We met four lovely ladies who were on their way to Sour for some Ramadan shopping. Sometimes I felt guilty that P was translating for us 24/7 (from street signs to menus to conversations to street art), and this was actually a nice chance for us non-Arabic speakers to attempt communication with the girls' shy middle-school English and their mothers. The best part was by far when they asked if AW and I were twins.
2. Think hard about traveling during Ramadan.
This has its pros and cons for traveling in predominantly Muslim countries during Ramadan. Since Lebanon has a large Christian population, our travel plans were hardly affected at all (other than our favorite restaurant, Le Chef, being closed during Eid). The biggest difference, in my opinion, was our day of traveling to Baalbeck, the enormous and awe-inspiring Roman temples of Lebanon. Unlike any other ruins I've seen, these temples were practically deserted. No lines, no timing your photos to avoid the crowds in the background. Because of this, Baalbeck felt peaceful and genuine and undiscovered.
3. Watch movies before you go
Or read literature by local writers, or read up on the current events, or find some recipes you like. Before traveling to Lebanon, I watched Waltz with Bashir, an Israeli-made film about the Lebanese civil war. I had very little idea about the film (other than what the cover told me- it was animated), and only a vague idea about the war (just that it left Beirut absolutely destroyed). Despite being confused throughout the film and having to pause to translate the Spanish subtitles, I really felt like I was with the main character throughout his journey to recover his memories of the war. I learned about the many, many players in the war and also some interesting things about Ariel Sharon that aren't exactly taught in high school history classes. The most important part was that I felt a connection to Beirut before I had even traveled there.
4. There's a huuuge chance that I will get traveller's diarrhea. So I might as well try everything anyways.
After a week of traveling in the Middle East I think it's quite normal to experience Montezuma's Revenge. So instead of being paranoid, I preeeetty much just eat whatever I want since I think that being extremely careful lower the chances of getting TD from 95% to 94%. Anyways, who can resist the honey-drenched pastries or the fresh figs? Definitely not me :).
5. Those who have the least share the little they have.
On our sojourn to see the famous Lebanese Cedars, a farmer driving a pear-loaded truck gave us about 10 pounds of pears. Why? I have no idea. But I guess he didn't need a reason. These small acts of unwarranted kindness really make you step back and think.
Also, in the Sabra refugee camp's market in Beirut, these nice men gave me a falafel wrap. I tried to pay them the 1000 LBP (or 0.66 USD) that I owed them, but they refused. I think I would have offended them if I had insisted even more. Anyways, I don't think this would have happened anywhere else in Beirut, especially in the rich and bougie districts.
6. Hezbollah wishes you a happy Ramadan
That should be what this banner says. While the U.S. has labelled Hezbollah as a terrorist group, the EU has refused to do so because they also provide much-needed social services to many areas of Lebanon. Hezbollah does have a militant wing, but our sensationalist journalism society just isn't as interested in their development programs, hospitals, or schools.
7. Lebanon is a mix of ancient and modern, secular and religion
Check out the mosque and church that are built right next to each other, smack dab in the middle of Beirut.